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<p>I agree that a correctly set up Hastings is the best solution.
(In the Letter from Arthur Fidler he explains how he did it on his
own & that it would take three people in 2004.)<br>
</p>
<p>Regarding the timber end stops bolted to the slide bar used with
a Hastings stay - were these intended to be adjusted / replaced?
They seem to be the solution if a bell is too deep set etc? I
replaced one which was decayed through woodworm - unbolted very
easily.<br>
</p>
<p>(Examples are on pages 96 & 97 of Bell Fittings by Trevor
Jennings which also states they reduced the slide patterns
differences to 8 (1930's?) & then 2 from 1950.)<br>
</p>
<p>Ken<br>
</p>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 24/02/2022 14:13, Chris Povey wrote:<br>
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<div dir="ltr"><i>It was followed by a letter from Arthur Fidler,
RW 16 Jan 2004 p.53</i> - and an earlier letter from me in RW
2004, p 29 questioning one aspect of the article: that Hastings
stays are tapered on three sides. This conflicts with Taylors'
drawings for Hastings stays, which shows all four sides are
tapered, to ensure everything remains central. I never received
an answer to this question. It is possible this bit was confused
with shaping the part of the stay that fits in the headstock,
which of course can be tapered on three sides to aid removal and
setting the stay central to the slide. The part facing the
small holes in Taylors headstocks should, of course, never be
tapered, otherwise the stay will not be upright (and Taylor
stays are stamped with this warning).<br>
<div>Chris Povey</div>
</div>
<br>
<div class="gmail_quote">
<div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Thu, Feb 24, 2022 at 1:52
PM c.j.pickford--- via Bell-historians <<a
href="mailto:bell-historians@lists.ringingworld.co.uk"
target="_blank" moz-do-not-send="true"
class="moz-txt-link-freetext">bell-historians@lists.ringingworld.co.uk</a>>
wrote:<br>
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0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
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<p class="MsoNormal"><span>NOT hyphenated – he’s in
Crockford’s under Horne, Edward Hastings</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>Thanks for drawing attention to
the 2003 article (I had a note of it – but not in the
place I looked in). It was followed by a letter from
Arthur Fidler, RW 16 Jan 2004 p.53</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>I agree completely with Chris
Povey about Hastings stays – faultless and
friction-free if properly set up. It used to annoy me
that at one point E&S advertised specifically that
they converted Hastings to normal stays and sliders –
a definite failure to appreciate good engineering.
That said, I do acknowledge that many steeplekeepers
find them a real pain. </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>Replacement stays of the
correct dimensions are still easily obtained from the
original suppliers in Loughborough, I believe! A
little expensive, but easy to fit – so probably worth
it. </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><b><i><span
style="color:rgb(31,56,100)">Chris Pickford</span></i></b><span
style="color:rgb(31,56,100)"></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="color:rgb(47,84,150)">Kinver
(UK)</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="color:rgb(47,84,150)">Tel:
07811-453525</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="color:rgb(47,84,150)">e-mail:
</span><a href="mailto:pickford5040@gmail.com"
target="_blank" moz-do-not-send="true"><span
style="color:rgb(5,99,193)">pickford5040@gmail.com</span></a>
</p>
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